Old School

Whenever I have a request for something on the more traditional side of the spectrum I get a little excited. While I love modern aesthetics, thinking, and design, every now and again, building something a little old school is nice (whether it be simple or intricate.) Like if I was a musician and I wrote a song that sounded like the Stones or Dylan, or if I was an artist and I painted something like David Hockney or Roy Lichtenstien... it would be nothing groundbreaking or innovative (and I am certainly NOT saying anything I have ever done is either of these. to the contrary in fact) but fun and satisfying nonetheless.

So, I am not a huge fan of staining wood... I am also not one that criticizes it either. In fact I get annoyed when I hear people DIS (yeah I said it) using any kind of color or paint on wood. I think coloring wood gets an unwarranted bad rap from too many crappily (yeah, I said it too) done jobs. Simple fact, sometimes stains, if properly executed, look badass. And if you want something to look aged you have to go to the stain... or wait 100 years. (aged, not distressed... I REALLY am not a big fan of the distressed look on a new piece. really. it inevitably looks like someone beat the thing with a screw driver. Age is subtle. Distressed can turn out looking contrived)

So here is my "go to" finish when I am trying to get the 100 year look. It is a modified version from the book Great Wood Finishes that I started using years ago.

It serves so many purposes that all around, for practical purposes, it is the only "staining" process I use.

First, as always, start with a well prepared surface. sanded or scraped to a least 220 grit.

Then I spray the entire surface with deionized water to pre raise the grain. I do this because in the next step, I use a water based dye (not stain... there is a difference... a big one) to give the piece 1 solid tone. Because the grain is already raised, I can eliminate some sanding and not risk sanding through my dye coat. Let the water dry the scuff sand with 320 grit.

For the dye coat I use 10 drops of TransTint's honey amber dye in 1 pint of deionized water. Spray the entire surface and let dry for at least an hour. The honey amber will look super yellow and freakishly awesome. This finish works particularly well if you have multiple boards glued together with different tones or unmatched sapwood like cherry. But it is also laying down a layer of that in the end will give a piece unmatched depth and well... age.

After the dye is dry (nice) I spray a thin thin thin coat of de-waxed shellac over the surface then scuff sand to 320 grit. This just seals the dye.

SUPER YELLOW!!!

For the next step I used to use a dark reddish/brown naphtha based stain by Mowhawk that is no longer made. I couldn't find anything comparable so now I do this in two steps. First I lay down a dark brown stain and let it sit for 20 minutes before wiping off. I let it dry for 1 to two days, depending on the humidity and, again, sand to 320.

Once dry, I will lay down my first coat of finish. Here I am using a wiping varnish. I let that dry for at least 24 hours then sand.... yes 320 grit. I now use a red mahogany toner on top of the first finish coat. These multiple layers create ridiculous depth and color. After the toner drys (1 hour) I then apply 3 -4 more coats of finish. Finish is important for the look. If I want it to look aged, I will most always go with a muted finish. Wiping varnish, shellac and lacquer have always done me right. Wax it up and its done. 100 years in a few days. Little bits of the yellow base come through the stain/toner/finish and make it look crazy!

On a different note... I should probably clean the shop.

Audi 5000!!!